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INA219 and BME 280

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74 series multiparts

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@NoodleDriver wrote:

74LS04.fzpz (7.3 KB)
74LS08.fzpz (7.9 KB)
74LS32.fzpz (8.7 KB)

These are the same parts I uploaded earlier today in reply to a request on another thread.
I have used these and tested them so I am sure they work perfectly but I’m only ‘fairly’ sure that they are ready for submission so please let me know if they are not and I will make any required changes.
Kevin.

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Connection Error

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@Hutzpah wrote:

Hi
I got my first project working in Arduino. It ended up looking like an
octopus. So here I am now learning Fritzing to make a PCB.

I think I am nearly their, but fritzing has come up with an error message.
Which I do not understand, it reads.

“Connection VIN (Also SDA,SCL,GND) on Part BMP280 ‘Sensor’ should have both copper top and bottom, but the svg only specifies one layer.”

But when I set the PCB1 to two layers the error still remains.
To be honest I am at a complete lost as to what I should do.
Any help would be very much appreciated.

Hutzpah

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Help add Valve DC12V - 6W Solenoid

RFID technology

Axial (electrolitic) capacitors, are there any?

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@CABBAGE0896 wrote:

I’m looking to use a 470uf capacitor on a small project and I would like to use an axial type to reduce the overall height on the PCB, Is there one available? I can’t seem to find one in the different packages available within the normal radial type so I’m reaching out to see what I’m missing. How would I select the axial version for a larger capacitor? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks

P.s. or could I possibly edit a part to suit my needs?

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Stepper Motor Control Circuit using SN754410 H-Bridge

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@opera_night wrote:

This is the Motor Circuit I use for Stepper Motors

It’s not really a ‘Part’ but, it can be Copied&Pasted into another circuit…_

Stepper_PH.fzz (24.7 KB)
Stepper_2PB.fzz (24.6 KB)
Stepper_Combo.fzz (27.2 KB)

Three Circuits but all are the same except for Connector type and locations. Choose the one you want. The Combo version has both connector styles - delete the ones you don’t want (can delete the Traces to them)
• Can be used as Stand-Alone design
• Can copy & paste into other circuits

• SN754410 H-Bridge chip
• One circuit per motor (I use NEMA-17 motors)
• Has added Heat-Sinking copper under the chip (attached to the 4 GND pins - Can delete if not wanted)
• This is Single-Layer design (to facilitate easier HomeMade PCB making. Three jumper wires will be needed)
• Delete corner Mount holes, Silkscreen…etc, as desired
• Example Arduino code included

• Options:

  • LED’s to indicate Running (and Back EMF for hand-turning test)

  • No resistors used but you may choose to add them, depending on your motor supply and LED voltage

  • Thru-holes provided for Capacitor on Motor-Power trace, if desired (I don’t use them)

  • DRC your other circuit first, then paste motor circuit into it (DRC the motor circuit will show Overlapping Errors due to the Silkscreens laying on top of the parts (the way I like them. Of course, you can move or delete them…)

Screenshot and Video Examples
• Pin Header screenshot
• Back EMF (Hand-Turning test on BreadBoard)
• Running Motor
• Adding it to New/Existing circuit

mov

mov

mov

mp4

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LM239 Quad Comparator


[sharing] custom designed NRF24 module with PIFA

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@AlanChen wrote:

Hello, this is my design of custom antenna nRF24 module.
%E5%9C%96%E7%89%87
for better detail please see the achievement .

based on schematics from Nordic company
replaceable with nRF24-module (nRF24L01) from market ,
In need of better radio range.

NRFbd3-meanderedPIFApaper.fzz (83.7 KB)

Featuring special usage of:
(The usage below should not be familiar to normal users, it is unusual and you need to know what you are doing)
A. special designed PIFA (printed inverted “F” Antenna) with different shapes.
B. with some technique Fritzing can make some part of solder-mask blocked, (see completed PCB - back side), this is done in order to yield better radio range, but seems copper mask doesn’t matter much.

C. Castellated Holes designed to cut manually ( safe some cost)

here’s how I did this:
(A)

  1. use many "via"s for precise locating, wire them up.
  2. convert via to bend point
  3. you may need to pull and ctrl+z to make them look nice.
    (you can see the designed antennas in the sketch)

(B) (use copper pads as mask-block, and export twice for different needed file)

  1. export using pads to cover up place where you want to show the copper/FRP naked
    (in my case, ground fill was used, and mask-block also blocks ground fill)
  2. find “maskBottom.gbs” and/or “maskTop.gts”, back them to somewhere else
  3. remove the pads used for mask-block, export again.
  4. copy the make file from step 2. and paste&replace them in later export.

© (Just some more holes extend over extra board space.)
the board was ordered in 0.8mm thickness for easy cutting.

this links to my FB-fanpage posting this project


and the bigger boards at left were the MCU(atmega328p) board for mounting /controlling nRF module. there were also mask blocks on them.

this design did made some small patch sample out,
SMD with stencil&paste by hand, and cooked by heat-plate usually used to grill .
The yield of the product is bad, not all worked.
However small amount of them did work with all function, radio.begin and all write&read.
that’s a sign of success design I guess.

I didn’t make big patch out of these, because my yield was poor,
and too much hassle for me to earn a little more range.
also good RF range seems consider more on capacity value than PIFA shape,
or a bigger antenna is needed. ( room availability is strict with my project)
Far beyond my skills, for now. Still I had some fun with this project.
And the working samples were reeeeeally cool to show around maker friends.
“hey look I designed my own antenna, and it Fking worked”

Hope this experience and usage can inspire you guys :slight_smile:

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Electret Microphone Amplifier - MAX9814 with Auto Gain Control

TP4056 Charger board fault?

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@djswirl wrote:

Hi Guys

Need some advice, I used the TP4056 Charger board found here

http://forum.fritzing.org/t/tp4056-charger-board/4795

I’ve had some PCB made and they don’t fit, fits one way but where the dual pins are the holes on the board are to wide. I’m not sure if this is a fault with the Fritzing part or something else. The TP4056 will fit on a breadboard

Any advance?

Thanks

Brian

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I need TDA2030 part

Need help to make a scoreboard

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@sfjm wrote:

I’m looking for someone who can help me with this, since I still see myself as a beginner. I made some “standard” boards, but everything that was present in Fritzing.

I ordered 2 LED RGB matrix 64x32 dots (192x96mm). I want to make a scoreboard for 4 players/teams. I want to place both screens under each other and control via a bluetooth module with an Arduino nano or Uno. The score (ranging from 0 to 99) must be displayed on a 32x32 grid, each player / team in a different color

If there is sufficient space, I also want to show a team name.

I would like to make the screen in Fritzing as a new part. How can I design this? I cannot find another post on this forum that someone has ever made a LED matrix 64x32.

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File format for upload..?

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@CABBAGE0896 wrote:

What is the format used to upload parts? If I download a part from a third party ( for instance Digikey’s Ultra librarian) , what is the file format I need to download from there to be able to upload the part into Fritzing? Or can I? Thanks for any replies. C

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Elegoo Super Starter Kit Items

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@CallumTobias wrote:

So I’m trying to digitize and ultimately print a circuit board for my electronics for a project, but Fritz doesn’t seem to have any of the parts from the Elegoo Super Starter Kit. I specifically need the stepper motor, driver, and additional power module. Any ideas on where I could get parts?

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Can I create a local shared collection of parts bins

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@RobertHeller wrote:

I am the system admin for the computers at a public library. The computers all run Linux (Ubuntu 18.04). I have installed Fritzing for use by library patrons. I want to import a collection of parts bins (specifically the AdaFruit collection of parts), but I don’t want to clutter each of the library patron home directory with these parts (it would be a huge waste of disk space). Is it possible to create a common directory with all of these parts (much like the existing /usr/share/fritzing/parts tree contains the core parts, SparkFun, and Arduino parts)? I have downloaded the AdaFruit .fzbz files. How do I contruct this tree in a way the Fritzing will understand and what do I put in $HOME/.config/Fritzing/Fritzing.conf ?

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Loading Fritzing

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@eamonn56 wrote:

Hello. I have searched the Forum, but, cannot seem to find the answer. May be I missed it.
However. Fritzing always seems to require loading from the .zip file, and, I cannot seem to pin it to the Task Bar.
Maybe I am doing something wrong, or, I have missed a part of the download.
Any help would be appreciated.
Many thanks

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Mistake - please delete

Errors when running Fritzing

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@grgwnw wrote:

Hi,
I was able to download the Linux 64-bit version of Fritzing from the website. I went into the terminal and I extracted all the files to a folder using tar xjvf fritzing-0.9.3b.linux.AMD64.tar.bz2. Afterwards when I navigated to the folder in the terminal, I called ./Fritzing (not running the fritzing install sh file) and it gave me this error:

    `/home/grgwnw/fritzing-0.9.3b.linux.AMD64/lib/Fritzing: error while loading shared libraries: libssl.so.1.0.0: cannot open shared object file: No such file or directory`

I am using a Samsung Chromebook 3 and I installed Linux through the beta version that Google has released. Is it an error that I did while I was extracting the file? Please help! Thank you very much!

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CloudX M633 Microcontroller Fritzing

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