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20x4 LCD Display with integrated I2C, based on LCD1602-I2C by Stephen Lilley
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Ground Traces OR Ground Fill help
@coderchick wrote:
Hello, I just ordered a PCB and it came back but I messed up on a couple of things. I want to make sure I have the Ground correct, but I’m very confused with the Ground and I keep seeing all kinds of different things.
I put all the traces for the Grounds on the bottom layer of the PCB and then I saw that you should add “Ground Fill Seeds” and add a “Ground Fill Layer”, I did that and then when I got the PCB back there were no visible Ground traces on the bottom, but I guess that is to be expected because of the Ground fill, I guess.
I have all the traces for the Motor GND and the Logic GND separated…
My question is, should I leave it like I have and just have the “Ground Seeds and Ground Fill” on the bottom layer, which would make the traces unnecessary, but would also leave the Motor and Logic GND the same (I think). If I do this way should I remove the GND traces?
OR
Should I leave the Motor and Logic GND traces separated on the bottom layer and not add the Ground Fill? If I do not add the Ground Fill do I place Ground Seeds…?
Thanks for any help, I am super new to this so any help is greatly appreciated!!
MP6500_ForumCopy.fzz (44.5 KB)
Posts: 5
Participants: 3
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PCB With Grid For Visual Ref
@opera_night wrote:
A previous post got me thinking about a Grid on the PCB…
It’s useful (for me) to sometimes tweak the Grid in PCB view so as to better manipulate parts for alignment but, most often I leave the Grid turned off so I can force-fit parts and traces where I want them and use command-keys for Horiz/Vert alignment.
Adding to that, it’s very difficult to see the Grid on a PCB - perhaps it’s simply my computer display/contrast. But, I like the machine as-is.
Thus, I made a PCB (call it a ‘Part’, if you want) with a Grid on the Silkscreen so, can hide it.
Grid spacing is 2.54mm (0.1 inch).Image’s show alignment with parts/pitch and 90mmX60mm board.
The white boarder is for my ‘tooling’ keep-out area (where I use hold-downs or frame to lock PCB from moving when I CNC/Mill it…
Board file (Be Sure to delete the .fzz extension, added for posting the file)
PCB_90x60_wGrid_R0 copy.svg.fzz (11.8 KB)
Posts: 2
Participants: 2
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Grounding, Shielding, Isolation, PCB Layout
@opera_night wrote:
Just an FYI - I’m not an expert but, some folks seemed to think I ‘am/was’ and forced me into teaching classes in EMC/EMI.
How to explain to others with less interest (except to keep their job) lead me to a useful book I often recommended.
It contains common-sense/practical design info - especially as it may relate to PCB’s, Grounding, Shielding, Cabling/Wiring and Placement of Components on the board.
It’s not necessary to read the book - simply reviewing relevant sections (such as PCB Layout) may be valuable to some…
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
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Please review my sketch
@BusDev wrote:
Hello,
I am designing my second board, and as always appreciate if you can review the design. I am trying to make a simple temp sensor board connected to Wemos D1 Mini [ ESP8266] and have sleep mode on it. The battery i am using is 18650 li-ion style. There are a few areas that i am not sure of, so i would greatly appreciate if you can validate them.
- Basic Design is as per this circuit diagram.
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/esp8266-ds18b20-temperature-sensor-web-server-with-arduino-ide/a) I connected the Power Pin to 5V on Wemos from Battery.
PULL-UP RESISTOR circuit:
I am not sure if i have placed the 4.7KOHM resistor correctly in the circuit diagram.
Its supposed to be like this: https://community.mydevices.com/t/wemos-d1-mini-ds18b20-temp-sensor-oled-128x64/6544
My question is: IS IT ?PLACEMENT OF BATTERY HOLDER:
I want the bat holder to be in bottom layer of PCB, so that my overall WidthXHeight of PCB is small.
However, note that the Wemos (top layer) PINs need to clear the holder. I know this is possible because i have a prototype that i made exactly like this, and it works.(see pics)
The challenge i have here is, i am not able to move the Wemos “finely”. It seems to “SNAP” into locations, and hence, the pins interfere with battery. How do i move the wemos finely so its pins DO NOT go into the battery holder in bottom layer.SWITCH FOR SLEEP:
I used a basic switch from fritzing panel. Basically, if D0 and RESET are connected (SWITCH ON or CLOSED), then i can program the Wemos to go into sleep mode, and wake after predefined time intervals.a) I want the SWITCH to BE ON by default. I do not know, what PINS in the switch are ON by default. Currently, i have D0 connected to switch center [pin2] and RST to [3]. But is this CLOSED [ON] or OPEN [OFF], i do not know ?? ( i think it is)
But i think the real question is, --> is the part i chose for switch a slide type. If i move up, then it should connect “CENTER” and “TOP” i.e. D0 and RST. Is this what will happen with my choice of switch here.Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.Agni_V3.1_TempSensor.fzz (43.7 KB)
Regards,
Posts: 2
Participants: 2
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Se podria meter una power supply for pc en fritzing
@CarlosAyala wrote:
se podria meter una fuente de poder de atx en fritzing, e buscado pero no lo he encontrado
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
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Can't find part: FET MPF102 or 2n5457 or compatible
@HarryR wrote:
Hi everybody,
am i blind or is there no fet like announced in the subject in the libray (standard) ?
Best regards
Harry
Posts: 5
Participants: 3
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Why is my arduino uno's voltage regulator frying?
@tmhernandez77 wrote:
I am making an arduino project for a high school class that I teach and I can’t figure out why the voltage regulator on my uno keeps blowing.
I uploaded my diagram so you can take a look and see if there is an obvious error I am missing. It can be found here: http://fritzing.org/projects/arduino-bluetoothcar-with-obstacle-avoidance-senso
My current thoughts are the culprit could be:
- I need two seperate grounds, as opposed to a single common ground, though I don’t think this is causing the issue
- I was using an 11.1 V lipo, switching to a 7.4 could solve the issue
- I am drawing too much current through the regulator, not sure what to do to fix this
- I accidentally shorted something or made a mistake assembling my circuit, but I did have it functioning before the regulator melted.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Posts: 2
Participants: 2
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Custom wire colours
@Jordan132 wrote:
Hello guys! Is there any way to use other colours for wires other than the 10 ones fritzing has?
Thanks in advance, Jordan
Posts: 2
Participants: 2
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A Somewhat Useful App/Tool
@opera_night wrote:
I wrote a Java App 10yrs ago and recently needed to update it for Java 1.8. While doing it, I tweaked it a bit so it’s more useful for my Fritzing work and am posting it here.
I did not polish it - thought I’d wait to see feedback. It works as-is but, could use work. Think ‘beta’ version… If it becomes a useful app, I’ll add Help and Bells & Whistles down-the-road (maybe…).
What does it do? First, the Fritzing font used to display the cursor position is soooo tiny, it’s useless for my 70yr old eyes.
This App determines the Coord’s and Distance’s (between Two points on the screen - not on a PCB or Part).It’s useful for those of us making 3D parts and needing to know locations of, say a ‘Button’ so as to make a lid on an enclosure…
But, with a little understanding, you can get the actual dimensions…
Basically, you determine/setup a scale and use it to calculate dimensions based on Pixels of the Screen.
I appear to have a Mouse problem (perhaps it’s my machine or Java). The Mouse pointer I’m using is a Graphic_Overlay so, I suspect it…
Hence, the Video shows multiple clicks because cursor isn’t placed just where the receiving element wants it…The Video is crude but gets the point across…
It’s a .jar file so, delete the .fzz extension.
Place the woof.jar in a convenient location as it Writes a file with the Data (saved via ‘Save’ button).
Double-Click the woof.jar to open/run it. Yes, you need JRE 1.8.============================
GUI
“Set Origin” sets current Top-Left corner (Red Arrow Tip) as New Origin.
“Data” button collects the current Data-Point.
“Save” writes the data to a file in location where the App lives.
“Drag Me” is a Drag-Handle to position it.Determining PPI (Points Per Inch)
Since the App measures Distances on the Screen, anything not displayed at the Actual Size, will need to be scaled.
A scaling factor based on a Known (actual) size of displayed Item (such as PCB) is required.
Scaling is determined by displaying the “Actual Size” (in Fritzing’ View’) and measuring it on the screen with a Ruler for confirmation.
Example: Actual (known Width of PCB) = 90mm (= 9cm = 3.54 inch).
- Measure the Dist between PCB left and right edges. Let’s say, Dist = “386px” for the 3.54 inch PCB.
Therefore, “Scale Ratio = 3.54in/386px”
- Distances between points A and B when Fritzing display is not set to Actual Size… One additional Ref dimension is needed, as follows:
Zoom-in on the PCB (full view) and measure the PCB’s width using the App. Say it’s “957px”
Therefore, 957/386 = 2.48 (sale factor for the Zoomed View).
- Now, Use the App and measure the distance between points A and B, Say the Dist = “141px” (the width of the Encoder on the example in video)
There is linearity by Ratio’s, therefore, the Faux(screen) Dist is obtained from:
Dist(actual result) 3.54 inch -------———————----—— = ————-----—, Therefore, Dist(faux) = 1.29 inch 141 px 386 pxThe Actual (Physical) size is (Ratio’d down/up as needed, based on the Zoomed View the 141px came from):
Therefore: 1.29/2.48 = 0.52 inch, = 13.2 mm, which matches the part’s Spec. Bingo!
Woof.jar.fzz (16.2 KB)
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
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Protection plans for smart devices
@geek_squad wrote:
geek Squad offers you best protection plans for your smart devices, customers can contact with geek squad support anytime via support chat or remote access. We provides you best assistant also as per customers need.
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
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Moving pin location in parts editor
@CABBAGE0896 wrote:
Good morning, beginner here I have a question about the parts editor. how do I or can I move the pins on a core part to create a new part in the editor? For instance the red led in the core bin is incorrect and I would like to correct it for my own use not to publish but for myself. Another example is a 6mm potentiometer, can I move a pin in the editor and save it as a new part, if so how? is there a tutorial available someone can point me to? Thanks in advance if someone knows of one or can provide an answer.
Posts: 2
Participants: 2
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What To Do If Can't Find Part - A Simple Solution
@opera_night wrote:
… mostly for Noob’s…
A simple solution for when there is no part or can’t find the one you want:
Example, you want a “Watch” part
Create a drawing in your favorite drawing app
- use black for color
- try to (approx) size it for actual part
- Save as .SVG
Drag a ‘Pin’ part onto the PCB
Drag the ‘Silkscreen Image’ part onto the PCB
Load your drawing into the Image
• Resize as needed
• Note: There’s a ‘check box’ to toggle for Aspect Ratio
(it’s too small on my display to see it - look at the cursor in video to see where it is - I had to fuss around to click it )
• The image is now part of the Silkscreen
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
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iTunes Error 0xe8000015
@linapok259600 wrote:
Nowadays a lot of iPhone/iPad users are complaining about iTunes error and asking for the solutions to fix it. Therefore, I am sharing some useful facts to resolve the error. Click the link “Easy Ways To Fix iTunes Error 0xe8000015” and get rid of the issue in no time.
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
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Sketch review - USB connector and mounting holes
@irPaul wrote:
Hi all,
I’m designing my first-ever PCB for an Arduino-based project, and I’d like to ask for some help in finalising the design. Attached is the design - I think it’s straightforward: Arduino Nano, stepper (ULN2003), 4-digit display (TM1637), clock (DS3231), and touch button.
The Arduino will be powered with a stripped cable from its microUSB to the USB Header, so I can also easily use the serial port for sketches and communication.Of course I would like to know if all the traces and widths are okay. I used 16 mill now for the 5V traces and 8 mil for signals. I will still do a top and bottom fill, so the ground wires might be a bit weird now.
Some specific questions:
- All peripherals have an on-board capacitors for smoothing the 5V. Do I need to add extra capacitors on the board? The display and stepper are more power-hungry, so I split the 5V for those.
- The stepper is connected with a JST-XH 5-pin vertical connector. This part is not available in Fritzing, but the spacing is normal 0.1". It should work with the normal female header I used now, right?
- The ZS-042 board is mounted battery-down. I want to mount it the other way around, but Fritzing does not allow to flip the part. The dirty option is to simply reverse the wiring of course, but surely there is a more elegant solution?
Furthermore, I don’t need the top headers, and want to use the top two mounting holes. How do I remove this header? And how do I align my PCB holes to the board? Now I just guesstimated their position, assuming the board uses 0.1" spacing.- I only found one micro-usb connector in Fritzing, which has one flat edge for soldering. I’m thinking a through-hole mounted connector is more robust. Is this necessary, and if so how would I add this part?
Sorry for the overload of questions - it’s my first time designing a board. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Watchwinder_shield_20190315.fzz (23.8 KB)
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
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Custom Breadboard
@whmeade10 wrote:
Can a custom breadboard be made for Fritzing. I purchased a large breadboard and it is way bigger than any breadboard that can be picked in Fritzing. I would add a photo of the breadboard I have but can’t seem to find a way to do that.
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
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Request - 4 x AA battery pack
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Custom part with Track Solder Mask
@djswirl wrote:
Hi All
I quite new to all this. I’m working on a project were I need to place 24 x WS2812b LEDs in a circle on custom PCB. Fritzing does not have the capability to lay this out correctly and accurately so I’ve make a custom part using CorelDraw. I have put in the copper and silkscreen layers, however I need a mask
What I need to end up with all the tracks having a mask and only the pads exposed, what I getting is ALL copper exposed.
So how do I add a copper mask, what slayer names are used?
Thanks
Brian
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
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Can't find a SMD Mono 3.5mm jack in fritzing parts
@CV_Wonder wrote:
Hello everyone,
Is there anybody out there who happens to have fritzing part designed for a surface mount 3.5mm mono jack of any type? I haven’t been able to find one and am not versed at all at creating parts from scratch.
Thank you!
Posts: 3
Participants: 2
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Part and Text layers misaligned (schematic view)
@sfrvn wrote:
Somehow, my IC schematic symbol has ‘separated’ into two layers – ‘part’ layer and ‘text’ layer. I cannot get the text layer aligned with the part layer, so that the pin numbers (text layer) are ‘over’ the correct pins. Hopefully screenshot will explain/illustrate.
Notice part layer (shaded) with text layer (pin numbers) offset to right. The dashed line encompasses BOTH layers.
Can anyone explain how to bring them back into alignment? And how to prevent this from happening again?!?
Thanks for any guidance you can offer.
gary b
Posts: 4
Participants: 3
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