@pinolec wrote:
Hi,
I've created part for SoilWatch10. Waterproof, 75Mhz capacitive soil moisture sensor.
Check out indiegogo campaign: https://igg.me/at/sw10/fritzing
or visit my website.SoilWatch 10.fzpz (40.4 KB)
All comments are welcome
Posts: 3
Participants: 2
@greglwood wrote:
Is there a way to print a net list for assembly. What I mean is if you prototyping it list each wire and its connections. Like A3 to G49, IC2 Pin3 to C1 Anode, etc?
Posts: 5
Participants: 3
@vj_dobermann wrote:
Hi everybody,
I'm creating an ECG (electrocardiogram).
The purpose is to send the ECG values to my macbook using an ESP.![]()
I can't find any tutorial on the internet that could explain me how to connect correctly the esp to my macbook pro. The ESP must just send the values by wifi.
Could someone please help me or send me a tutorial link ?
I've arduino boards : uno, leo eth, nano and mini pro.Thanks in advance
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@cafeciaojoe wrote:
It is an industrial design project I started at uni. I think I am in over my head!
I made a little video and a schematic to save some time.
![]()
ADDED note: The huzzah feather also starts if the leads from output pins 2 and 16 are disconnected. The LED strips flash when the reset buttons are pushed, the output pins 2 and 16 are momentarily pulled high. My guess is that it would open the transistors and cause some sort of power shortage that prevents the huzzah booting.
So my guess is that I need a capacitor somewhere to smooth this out but where?
thanks for your time fellas.
Posts: 2
Participants: 2
@arnelange wrote:
Dear all fellow users of fritzing,
This is my first PCB ever created and it is for an own wordclock with RTC and timesignal via DCF77.
I would like to ask if a fast Review if possible if I made stupid mistakes ...This might be a request done quite often, but as everyone starts as a beginner, I hope for your Support!
Thanks and looking Forward to your considerations!
Arne
Lange PCB 2.fzz (21.9 KB)
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@allanschwartz wrote:
I have been using Fritzing for a couple of months, now. And I've taken several boards all the way to fab.
I have blogged about my experiences here:
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@Old_Grey wrote:
Did anyone figure out how to split internal elements for parts that are in one part.
I want to use the op-amp symbol in a twin op-amp LM358, but I want to split it so that the 2 internal elements are in different places in the SCH.
If you look at the pic there is an single op-amp that is split with 1 element above and 1 below the MEGA2560 IC.
![]()
There are also lots of resistor arrays that I want to split.
Posts: 5
Participants: 2
@er_fritzing wrote:
Hello , i want create a relay with different pin size as in the core parts. Here in Germany we use relay with 5mm pin distance.
My problem is how i can adjust the right distance of the pins for the pcb .
Where i have to adjust the right size of part and pins distance at inkscape or at Fritzing part editor?I work with Inkscape and i already found the xml file for svg.
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@thedragonlord wrote:
Good morning to everybody. I'd need a 1x4 keypad for Arduino part for my new project....have anybody already created it?
Thanks and regards
Andrea
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@wolfrose wrote:
Hello,
Can I increase the breadboard size more than full+?
Also how to import other components; like, PIC16F877A?
Regards,
Posts: 3
Participants: 3
@Eyolon wrote:
Hi
I've design a custom pcb (fited for xbox 360 controller). on Inkscape, it look great, same on PCB view on fritzing but when i export in Gerber, pdf or svg file, the stroke of the pcb is completly chaotic on a side.
i've trying to fix it on inkscape but my level is to small on this soft. Thanks if someone find a solution
Posts: 4
Participants: 2
@thedragonlord wrote:
Hello again, I'm asking a part for a 20x4 display with blue backlight.
I attach
a datasheet and a picture, hope they're enough....Thanks
Andrea
Posts: 3
Participants: 2
@Cytheria wrote:
In a project, I am using the PTN78020H power supply, and it has a recommended circuit (from the datasheet linked above) that looks like this: Circuit diagram for power supply
Now on the input, it requests a massive 4 x 4.7uF ceramic capacitors. I've had a look around and haven't found any place selling through whole ceramic capacitors in values anywhere near that.
Typically a ceramic cap is used to filter high frequencies, and electrolytic have much worse performance, so I don't want to switch all the input caps to electrolytic, but would it be feasible to, say, use 10uF electrolytic and 1uF ceramic? Tantalum caps come in the 4.7uF capacitance range, and I believe have better performance than electrolytic?
My question is pretty much: Assuming I can't get hold of 4.7uF ceramic capacitors, what should I do?
Posts: 2
Participants: 2
@jxmot wrote:
Just joined, but I've been viewing the forum for a week or two. And I've been using Frizting for about a month or so.
A little about myself... I'm a software engineer and I've worked with embedded systems, casino gaming, GUI design and all kinds of peripheral devices, and most recently with full stack web design. I've also got a background in electronics, wire wrap("old school" LOL) and PCB design. Although my PCB experiences were when red & blue mylar tape was the way it was done (before PC layout programs! LOL). So I'm really looking forward to diving into the capabilities of Fritzing!
j
Posts: 3
Participants: 2
@allanschwartz wrote:
Has anyone made a DIP SWITCH 4-position?
I tried hacking the 8-position switch but the results were not perfect.
Posts: 2
Participants: 2
@apaloosa75 wrote:
Hi there,
I'm pretty new with Fritzing, I wanted to schematize a circuit I have done but I'm missing many components.
Lets start with the switch!
I have an arduino waiting to get a Digital HIGH on either ON positions, but I need a OFF position in the middle. None of the switch I saw has it.
I figured out some of the missing other parts like the Dual H-Bridge.Thank's help me!
Posts: 2
Participants: 2
@Sydcee wrote:
After a very long time I am again designing a single sided PCB with all connections and tracks on the bottom layer.
I have used a number of small ceramic caps with different values all from the list of the components.
Their connections must all be on the bottom copper layer. (green colour ?)
I presume that some have their connections are not, as some are orange & others are green!
How do I move all the connections to the green bottom layer?Thanks
Syd
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@stone wrote:
Hello,
I want to make a part with 2 choices for the schematic svg image.First, is this even possible?
Second, how do you go about doing this. It seems that some parts
have choices available for the pcb layout, such as through hole or smd.Can this be done for the schematic symbol?
Thanks.
Posts: 1
Participants: 1
@Old_Grey wrote:
Is there an easy way to get a 60V sq wave from a 5V digital signal.
I've got a DIY car ECU that outputs a digital 5V tach signal, the problem is that my tach uses the high voltage coil flyback as a signal and won't trigger off that.
Currently I have a MOSFET switching a relay with the contact bar removed - too noisy otherwise - , and it's the flyback off that that makes the tach work.
I don't know much about actual electronics, but is there any simple ideas I could research. I don't really know what to search for because I know nothing.
Posts: 5
Participants: 3
